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69 



A HANDBOOK OF 
ELEMENTARY SEWING 







• * - 



>. I« H — — — 





Fig. i. Doilies, page 34. Fig. 2. Sewing Case, page 59. 

Fig. 3. Bookmarker, page 41. Fig. 4. Towel with 

Swedish Weaving, page 62. Frontispiece. 



A HANDBOOK OF 
ELEMENTARY SEWING 



ARRAHGED BY 

ETTA PROCTOR FLAGG 

SUPERVISOR OF HOME ECONOMICS IN 
THE LOS ANGELES CITY SCHOOLS 



ILLTJSTBATED FBOM PHOTOGBAPHS 
AND DIAGBAMS 




BOSTON 

LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 

1915 



TTii« 
ft 



Copyright, 1915, 
By Little, Brown, and Company. 



All rights reserved 
Published, May, 1915 



Set up and electrotyped by J . S. Cushing Co., Norwood, Mass. , U.S.A. 
Presswork by S. J. Parkhill & Co., Boston, Mass., U. S.A. 



JUN I 1915 

Dci.A406077 



PREFACE 

This course has been arranged for the elementary 
schools of Los Angeles, California. It has been 
worked out to meet the conditions that exist in that 
city and may be taught satisfactorily by the grade 
teachers as far as the seventh grade. 

A few of the suggestions have already been printed 
in the School Arts Magazine and are reprinted through 
the courtesy of the publishers. My assistants in the 
department have given me many valuable sugges- 
tions, and I am also indebted to the art department 
for assistance in simple designs. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Preface v 



PART I 

General Directions 1 

Stitches used in the Fourth Grade. ... 2 

Stitches used in the Fifth Grade .... 4 

Utensils and Materials 16 

PART II 

Outline of Work. Fourth Grade 27 

Fifth Grade 31 

Sixth Grade 41 

Seventh and Eighth Grades . . 53 

Supplementary Work 54 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Doilies, Sewing Case, Bookmarker, Towel with Swedish 

Weaving. Full Page Frontispiece 

PAGE 

Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Right Side ... 7 
Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong Side, and How 

to Join the Thread 8 

Top Sewing-needle in Position .11 

Buttonhole 13 

Felled Seam 15 

Pin wheel, Needle Case, Sewing Bag, Laundry Bag, Holder, 

Towel. Full Page 28 

Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares Cut Out and One Side 

Overcast 31 

Stocking Darning . 36 

Draft of Sewing Apron . . . . . . .38 

Cooking Apron 42 

Fifth and Sixth Grade Bags. Full Page .... 46 

Diagram of Cross Stitch Bag 46 

Draft for Cap 50 

Dusting Cap 51 

Supplementary Work. Designs in Cross Stitch and Em- 
broidery for Underwear. Full Page .... 54 

Inside of Magazine Cover 56 

Laundry Bag ...... 57 

Rubber Bag showing Feather-stitching with Needle in 

Position 58 

Sewing Apron 61 

Pattern for Apron, One -eighth Size 68 

Pattern for Front and Side Gore of Skirt .... 69 



A HANDBOOK OF 
ELEMENTARY SEWING 

PART I 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

The pupil should provide herself with the following 
articles : 

A bag or box in which to keep everything. 

One paper of Milward's needles Nos. 3 to 9. 

One paper of crewel needles No. 4. 

A pair of small scissors. 

A tape measure. 

A spool of white thread, Clark's or Coats's, No. 70. 

A steel or silver thimble. 

The thread should be marked with the name of the 
owner, and the scissors should have a tag with the 
owner's name written upon it. 

See that the hands are perfectly clean. 

Let the light come from behind and over the left 
shoulder if possible. 

Always work with a thimble that fits the finger. 

When obliged to take out stitches, use the eye-end 
of the needle and pick out one stitch at a time. 

1 



2 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

If left-handed, work with the left hand, unless the 
parents are unwilling. 

Be sure that nothing is left unfinished at the end of 
the term. 

STITCHES USED IN THE FOURTH GRADE 

Basting. There are two kinds of basting that are 
commonly used : the even and the uneven. For both 
the work should be held in the same way. Place the 
work over the forefinger of the left hand and work 
from right to left. 

Uneven Basting. Tie a knot in the thread. Take 
a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the 
needle on half an inch, take another eighth-inch stitch. 
Continue in the same manner. Fasten with two small 
stitches taken over each other. 

This is used for simple decoration and for a tempo- 
rary fastening for seams or hems where no strain comes. 

Even Basting. Thread as before ; make the stitches 
all one fourth of an inch in length ; fasten as before. 

This is used for seams where any strain may come, 
and also by very young children for simple decoration. 

Overcasting. Hold work over the left forefinger, 
working from right to left. Fasten thread with two 
small stitches on the wrong side of the cloth. Place 
the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold ; 
point the needle to the left shoulder; take the next 
stitch one fourth of an inch to the left; continue to 
the end of the seam ; fasten with two small stitches. 



A HANDBOOK OP ELEMENTARY SEWING 3 

Running Stitch. Fasten the thread with two small 
stitches. Carry the needle forward one sixteenth of 
an inch and take one sixteenth of an inch stitch through 
the cloth. Continue these even stitches. 

In gathering, use the running stitch but tie a small, 
firm knot in the thread before beginning. In running, 
hold the work in both hands and take several stitches 
before drawing the needle through the cloth. 

Blanket Stitch. The blanket stitch is used for 
finishing raw edges, for working the loop and the 
bar used in buttonholes, and for simple embroidery. 
It is worked from left to right; the buttonhole stitch 
from right to left. 

The depth of the stitch and the space between the 
stitches may be varied and will depend upon its use. 
Great care must be taken in joining and in fastening 
the thread, or the edge will be uneven. To fasten the 
thread used in blanket stitching, turn to the wrong 
side, take a couple of running stitches under the last 
blanket stitch, draw the needle through, and cut off 
the thread. To join the thread, run the needle in 
under the last stitch, as in the beginning of the work, 
and draw it out over the thread that lies along the 
edge. 

For Canvas or Heavy Cloth. Insert the needle on the 
wrong side at a point the desired depth of the blanket 
stitch and take two or three running stitches to the edge 
of the cloth; this will bring the thread in position for 
the first stitch. Make the first blanket stitch over 



4 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

these running stitches. Holding the edge of the cloth 
toward you, insert the needle from above at the same 
point as before and bring it out over the thread; draw 
the loop thus made to the edge of the cloth. Repeat 
for successive stitches. For a simple finish, make the 
stitches on the flannel as far apart as they are deep. 
For a more ornamental finish, place several stitches in a 
group, or the stitches may be of different lengths, or 
spaces may be left between the groups of stitches. 

For Embroidering an Edge. Take the stitches as 
before but place them close together, so as to make a 
firm edge. If desired, the edge may be padded before 
working; the padding is done by working along the 
edge with either the chain or the outline stitch. 

Cross-stitch. The cross-stitch is used wholly as a 
decorative stitch, usually on art canvas or so-called 
cross-stitch canvas. The stitch is worked from right 
to left and is made by taking small stitches diagonally, 
in holes prepared for them, and then reversing and 
crossing every stitch made in the first row. 

STITCHES USED IN THE FIFTH GRADE 

Stitching. Stitching is so called because it looks like 
machine stitching. It is also known as back stitching. 
Stitching is done by taking a very short stitch back- 
ward on the upper side of the cloth and a longer stitch 
forward on the under side, making the stitches meet on 
the top, as in machine stitching. Fasten with two 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 5 

small stitches. Hold the work over the left forefinger 
and work from right to left. 

Half-back stitching is the same as stitching, except 
that the needle is put only half way back, thus leaving 
a small space between the stitches. Both of these 
stitches may be used where strength is required, or on 
garments too small to be stitched easily on the machine. 

Hemming. A hem is a fold made by turning the 
edge of the cloth over twice and then sewing it down. 
The first fold must be very carefully turned; if that is 
even, there will be very little trouble with the second 
turning. Trim the edge of the cloth before turning the 
hem. Make the first turning very narrow, about one 
fourth of an inch, or, better still, one eighth of an inch, 
unless the material is very difficult to turn. Use a 
measure for all hems except the very narrow. Baste 
near the edge of the fold with uneven basting stitches. 

Have no knot in the thread; hold the cloth across the 
cushion of the left forefinger ; pointing the needle from 
you, insert it at the edge of the fold, one fourth of an 
inch from the right end, and bring it out close to the end. 
Draw the needle through very carefully and leave half 
an inch of the thread to be tucked under the edge of the 
hem with the point of the needle. Take up two threads 
of the cloth and set the needle into the edge of the hem, 
keeping the needle in a line with the hem and pointing 
to the left shoulder. Be sure that all stitches slant. 

To Join the Thread. If there is no end left, pick out 
a few stitches. With the needle draw the end under the 



6 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

fold and toward the thumb. Begin with a new needle- 
ful, as when commencing the work, and put the needle 
into the last hole from which the short end came out, 
sewing both ends down with the next few stitches. 

Featherstitching. The featherstitch is an ornamen- 
tal stitch; it must be evenly done or it is worse than no 
stitch at all. This stitch consists of two parallel rows 
of alternating stitches, or groups of stitches, slanting 
toward the center. Keep the same length of stitch 
and the same slant. 

Single Featherstitching. Work toward you, holding 
the work over the left forefinger. Insert the needle 
from the under side a short distance to the right or left 
of the line to be followed and draw the thread through. 
Place the left thumb over the thread to hold it down, and 
on the opposite side of the center line, take up a slanting 
stitch; the top of the stitch is as far from the center 
line as the length of the stitch, and the bottom touches 
the center line. Draw the needle out over the thread, 
which will in this way form a loop of the thread from 
the first stitch. On the opposite side, take up another 
slanting stitch, the top of which is an equal distance 
from the center line and even with the bottom of the 
last stitch. Repeat for successive stitches. At the 
end of a thread, fasten by passing the needle down 
where the thread last came through the cloth, thus 
holding the loop from the last stitch in place. Fasten 
the thread on the wrong side by taking a few running 
stitches through one thickness of cloth. Begin a new 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 7 

thread by passing the needle up through the loop from 
the last stitch. 

Double Feather stitching. This is made by doubling 
the number of stitches on either side, or by using groups 
of three stitches alternately. Be very careful that the 
stitches of each group are placed exactly under each 
other. 

Outline Stitch. Fasten with two back stitches, 
keeping the thread above the needle, — that is, to the 
left; then take up with the needle an eighth of an inch 
of cloth and bring the needle out through the hole 
made in starting the stitch. Be careful not to pierce 
the thread. Proceed in the same manner. On the 
wrong side the stitch should look like back stitch. 

Hemstitching. Several different methods of hem- 
stitching are used, and any one of them will prove 
satisfactory if well done. 



>009*****'* 9 ••9**999*4 t0$tt99ltt«4*$1lttlt$tl 9$ 






Showing the Wokk with the Hemming Stitch as it looks 
on the Right Side. 



8 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

To draw the thread, choose a rather coarse thread the 
desired distance from the edge and pick it out carefully 
with the point of the needle. Hold this end with the 
right hand and draw it out carefully, pushing the gathers 
toward the opposite end with the left hand. When the 
thread breaks, hold the cloth to the light, and again 
pick out the end of the thread. Draw as many threads 
as desired. Baste the edge of the hem very carefully 




Showing the Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong 
Side, and how to join the Thread. 

to the edge of the drawn threads. Hold the edge of 
the cloth over the left forefinger, as in hemming. 
Fasten the thread by taking two or three small stitches 
in the edge of the fold. 

Begin at the right side, as in hemming. Pointing the 
needle toward you, take up three or four cross threads 
and draw the needle through. Put the needle back, 
take up the same threads, and insert the needle exactly 
above in the fold of the hem. Continue in the same 
manner, drawing the thread tight, to separate the 
clusters of cross threads. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 9 

A Second Method. Pointing the needle toward you, 
and holding the thread under the left thumb, take 
up three or four cross threads on the needle. Draw the 
needle out over the thread, thus forming a loop, and 
tight enough to separate the cross threads. Insert 
the needle under the edge of the hem only and take an 
ordinary hemming stitch. Continue along the hem in 
the same manner. 

Seed Stitch. This stitch is used for finishing hems 
in an ornamental manner or where a simple, effective 
touch is desired. 

Take three short stitches (an eighth of an inch) over 
each other; one back stitch going forward one fourth 
of an inch beyond the last stitch; back one eighth of an 
inch; sew over twice; forward as before. 

Use embroidery cotton to develop this stitch. 

Sewing on Lace. When sewing lace to an edge, 
always hold the lace next to you. Lace may be sewed 
on straight, or it may be gathered. At the top of most 
laces a coarse thread may be found woven into the lace 
for the purpose of gathering. Before drawing up this 
thread, divide the lace into fourths; pin, with right 
sides together, at point of division. Draw up the 
thread, arranging the gathers evenly, and top sew to the 
edge with fine, even stitches. If the lace is to be put 
on plain, hold it loosely to the edge and top sew. 

Sewing Lace around a Corner. When sewing lace on 
plain, to sew around the corner, top sew to a point as 
far from the corner as the width of the lace. Measure 



10 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

from this point on the lace twice the width of the lace 
and pin to the corner. Measure an equal distance 
from the corner on the lace and pin to the other side. 
Continue top sewing from this point and leave the 
corner until later. When the rest is all done, run a 
gathering thread into the corners, arrange the gathers 
evenly, and top sew as usual. 

Sewing Lace around a Corner (Gathered). When sew- 
ing lace around a corner, proceed as before, with this 
exception: the same fullness must be allowed on the 
corner that is allowed on the straight edge, in addition 
to that required for rounding the corner without draw- 
ing; allow two and one half times the width of the lace 
instead of twice the width. 

Sewing Two Ends of Lace Together. If the lace has 
a pattern, cut it with the pattern; lay one edge over 
the other and buttonhole over each raw edge with fine 
thread, or place the right sides of the lace together and 
sew in a narrow seam; lay the seam flat and buttonhole 
over the raw edge and at the same time down on the 
lace. If desired, turn a narrow fold in one piece of the 
lace to the right side and in the other piece to the wrong 
side; slip one under the other and hem down the two 
edges. 

Herringbone or Catch Stitch. " The herringbone 
stitch is a cross-stitch used as a finish on flannel edges 
or on heavy material. The stitch consists of single, 
alternating, running stitches, made first to the left and 
then to the right, from you instead of toward you as in 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 11 

ordinary sewing. The thread, being carried across 
from one stitch to another, gives the appearance of a 
cross-stitch. The stitches on each side must be in 
straight rows, with the outer row just over the edge of 
the material. Point the needle toward you in making 
the stitch, but work from you. In catch stitching a 
small knot may be used, if it can be concealed. Fasten 
the thread by running it in and out and under the last 
stitch." 

Top Sewing. " Top sewing is used for joining two 
folded edges or two selvages. Hold the work between 




Top Sewing-Needle in Position. 

the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the seam 
parallel with the finger. Leave one half an inch of 
thread after making a shallow stitch through one edge 
of the cloth, the needle pointing toward the chest. 
Lay this end of thread on top of the seam so that it may 
be sewed down by the next few stitches. Pointing the 
needle toward the chest, put it through both edges, 
taking up as little cloth as possible. The stitches should 
be slanting on the upper side and straight on the under 
side of the cloth. Work from right to left. To finish 



12 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

the seam, sew back over the last few stitches. To join 
the thread, leave half an inch of the old thread and half 
an inch of the new thread, place both together on the 
seam, and sew over them as you go on in the work." 

Selvage edges are sewed together in making pillow 
and bolster cases. When one edge has become stretched 
and is longer than the other, baste w T ith the long edge 
toward the sewer, the seam held around the forefinger 
of the left hand. 

Combination Stitch. The combination stitch con- 
sists of three little running stitches and a back stitch 
over the last running stitch. Take three running 
stitches on the needle and pull it through. Take up 
the last running stitch for the first of the next group of 
three stitches. This is a little stronger than the running 
stitch. 

Couching Stitch. Place a coarse thread on the line 
desired and sew it in place with six or seven stitches to 
the inch, so that the over-seam may lie at right angles 
to the couching thread. Use either an overcasting or a 
simple blanket stitch. 

Chain Stitch. Bring the needle out from underneath, 
hold the thread down with the left thumb, put the 
needle down again in the hole through which you 
brought it out, take up one fourth of an inch of the 
goods, and draw the needle through, over the loop of 
thread. This gives the first link in the chain. Put the 
needle down at the end of this first loop and continue 
as before. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 13 

Buttonholes. Cut buttonholes one inch apart and 
quarter of an inch from edge of fold. 

For practice cut buttonholes half an inch long, using 
buttonhole scissors if possible. 

Beginning at one corner, overcast to the left around 
the two edges, making about three stitches on each side, 
each stitch one sixth of an inch in depth. 

Place the needle down through the cloth where you 
began and, taking the double part of the thread in your 



f 



FofJ of cloiL 

Buttonhole. 

right hand, bring it over the point of the needle from 
right to left; draw the needle out and pull the thread 
through, being careful that the twist forms at the edge 
of the cloth. Insert the needle close to the last stitch, 
bring it through again, and loop the thread over as be- 
fore. Be sure that the thread is brought toward the 
last stitch and then around the needle. Continue 
until you have finished one side; open the buttonhole 



14 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

as widely as possible over your finger and work around 
the corner as if it were a straight edge. 

Make second side like first. At the end place three 
cross-stitches, each as long as the threads of the button- 
hole are deep, and buttonhole over these, bringing each 
stitch through the cloth. 

If desired, the buttonholes may be made with a bar 
at either end, or both ends may be rounded. 

Buttons. In sewing on flat buttons, insert the needle 
from the right side and back in order to hide the knot 
under the button. Place the button in position and 
hold a large pin or needle across the button to lengthen 
the stitches. Put in five or six stitches diagonally 
across the button and over the pin, keeping the stitches 
as even as possible. Place the pin in the opposite 
direction and take five or six stitches as before. Slip 
the pin out, pass the needle through the cloth only, 
and wind the thread around the threads five or six 
times between the button and the cloth. Pass the 
needle through the cloth and fasten securely. 

Two-hole Buttons. Place the buttons so that the 
stitches will come at right angles to the edge of the 
cloth, with the pin across the button. Proceed as 
before. 

Loop Buttons. Place the button in position with the 
loop at right angles to the edge of the cloth. Hold 
the button with the left hand and top sew the loop 
to the cloth. Pass the thread to the under side and 
fasten securely. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 15 

Felled Seam. Place two edges of cloth right sides 
together, one edge being one fourth of an inch above 
the other, and baste. Fold the upper edge over the 
lower edge one fourth of an inch and baste one eighth 




^V * - * + *<* *• * e t f t * r * * * * * * » » 




Felled Seam. 



of an inch from edge. Sew on upper side just below the 
basting with a fine combination or back stitch. 

Take out the basting thread and lay the seam over 
so that the raw edge is covered, press carefully with the 



16 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

finger exactly at the sewing of the seam, baste on the 
right side one sixteenth inch from seam. 

Hem the folded edge to the cloth underneath. 

French Seam. Baste the two pieces together on the 
right side; stitch; trim to one sixteenth of an inch; 
turn to the wrong side; crease firmly; baste just below 
the raw edges; stitch again. The finished seam should 
not measure over one eighth of an inch. The seam may 
be used on nearly all underwear and in simple wash 
dresses. 

Mitered Corners. Two hems crossing each other at 
right angles may be finished with either the square or 
the mitered corner. All hems more than half an inch 
in width should be mitered. 

Fold and crease the hem carefully. Fold the outer 
corner of this hem diagonally across to the inner corner 
of the hem and crease very firmly. Open the hem wide 
and cut off the corner of the cloth one fourth of an inch 
outside of this crease. Fold the hem as before, first 
being careful to turn in the upper edge of the mitered 
corner so that it will come exactly to the corner of the 
hem. Hem this diagonal portion so that no stitches 
will show on the right side. 

UTENSILS AND MATERIALS 

Thimbles. The thimble is worn upon the second 
finger of the right hand to protect the finger from the 
eye of the needle. It should be worn always when 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 17 

sewing. If possible, learn to push the needle from 
the side of the thimble instead of from the top. 

The first thimbles were made from iron and brass, 
but now gold, silver, aluminum, celluloid, and steel are 
used. Most of the aluminum thimbles prove unsatis- 
factory in wearing qualities, and the brass ones dis- 
color the finger; for general home wear the silver 
thimble will prove the best. 

Scissors. Scissors should be in every work-box or 
bag. Select a good pair in the beginning, and they will 
last through the entire course. Any reliable hardware 
store will carry one or two satisfactory makes. The 
Boker, the Wiss, and the Keen Kutter are all good, and 
there are many others. Be sure that you have a pair 
joined just tightly enough; if too loose, the blades will 
slip past each other; if too tight, they will be hard to 
open. Keep your scissors well sharpened at all times. 
Shears with blades less than six inches long are usually 
called scissors. s 

Needles. A needle is a small, pointed instrument 
used for carrying thread through material. It has 
been used since the earliest times. The present ones 
are made from steel wire, but in ancient times they were 
made from fish-bones, ivory, and bronze. The regular 
sewing needle is made in several different styles called 
" ground-downs/' " betweens," and " sharps." 

The sharps are slender and long with a small eye. 

The betweens are slender and short with a small 
eye. 



18 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

The ground-downs are rather short and blunt with a 
larger eye. 

The darning needles are long and sharp with a long 
eye. 

The tapestry needles are short and blunt with a long 
eye. 

The crewel needles are of medium length with a long 
eye. 

Needles vary in size from No. 1 to No. 12. No. 1 
is very coarse, No. 12 is very fine. The numbers most 
commonly used are 7, 8, 9. A good needle must be 
made of good steel, so that it will not break too easily, 
and it must have a smooth eye that the thread may not 
be cut. Milward and Sons' and Roberts's are both satis- 
factory, and they can be purchased almost anywhere. 
These are both English makes. 

Pins. Every girl should have her own pins; select 
those that are of medium size with sharp points. Dull 
points make too large holes and will injure fine cloth. 

The earliest pin used was a thorn or twig from a tree; 
then wire pins were made, and now we have them in 
endless variety. Dressmakers' pins come by the box 
and may be bought in half-pound quantities; but the 
same style may be obtained in papers, and one paper 
should be sufficient for a pupil for at least one year. 

Thread. Thread is a twisted strand of silk or wool, 
flax or cotton. The linen and cotton thread are 
numbered with figures; the silk thread is designated by 
letters. The larger the figure, the finer the thread. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 19 

The numbers most commonly used are 60 and 70. All 
the sizes from 40 to 90 are needed in the home, if one 
is to do all kinds of work. 

Certain makes have proved more satisfactory than 
others. Two very good ones are Coats's and Clark's, 
and, for the single-stitch machine, Brooks's glace. 
Study a spool of Coats's thread, and you will see on the 
ends of the spool these different things. 

" J. and P. Coats " — which gives you the makers' 
name; " best six cord " — which means made up of 
six strands of thread; " 200 yards " — which is the 
number on the spool; " 60 " — which is the size of the 
thread, and, perhaps, the figure 12, which seems to 
mean the same as 60. 

Cloth. The process of making thread is called 
spinning. The process of making cloth is called weav- 
ing. The machine upon which cloth is made is called 
a loom. This, at first, was very simple, and the cloth 
was all made by hand. Now most of the weaving is 
done by machinery. Cloth consists of two sets of 
thread, one lengthwise, one crosswise of the goods. 
The lengthwise threads are the ones stretched upon the 
loom; these are the stronger and are known as the 
warp threads, or the warp. The crosswise threads are 
called the woof threads. 

All good cloth is made from silk, wool, linen, .or 
cotton. 

Cotton. When cotton was first used or who were the 
people first to cultivate it, no one is able to tell. The 



20 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

earliest history speaks of an Indian plant " which pro- 
duces wool of a finer and better quality than that of 
sheep," and we know that in India, Persia, Egypt, and 
China, cotton garments have been used for thousands of 
years. 

The plant seems to grow in the warm regions of both 
continents. When Columbus landed in South America, 
he found the shrub growing wild and the natives making 
garments and fishing-nets from the fibers. The lint 
was used for making beds, and in Mexico, in the six- 
teenth century, garments, tapestries, and bedspreads 
were made from the cotton. 

In the United States, cotton was first discovered in 
the section which is now the states of Louisiana and 
Texas. As soon as the colonists arrived in Virginia 
they began to plant the seeds of the cotton plant. For 
a number of years cotton was raised as a garden plant 
only, but by 1775 the Southern people began to plant it 
in larger quantities, and soon it was beginning to take 
the place of that imported. The trustees of the col- 
onies did not encourage the manufacture of the home- 
grown cotton for fear that it would interfere with the 
English manufacturing, but when the Revolutionary 
War cut off the imports of European manufacture, the 
Americans began to make their own cotton goods. 

The cotton, at first, was difficult to clean; the clean- 
ing was all done by hand, and the result of a whole 
day's work was only one pound of cotton. Often the 
whole family worked at it in the evening. Later, 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 21 

machinery came into use, and then the raising of cotton 
for commercial purposes increased rapidly. 

At first all the cotton was short staple, or upland cot- 
ton. After the Revolutionary War, some sea-island 
cotton was planted in the tide-water section of Georgia. 
This cotton has a longer, stronger, more silky fiber and 
can be spun into long, silky threads. It is used in 
making fine cotton goods and in lace and thread. 

Of all the kinds of cloth, cotton cloth is the most 
common and the least expensive. Bed linen, so called, 
window draperies, underwear, light-weight dresses, 
and indeed many dresses of heavier weight, may be 
made satisfactorily from cotton materials. 

The best materials for underwear are long cloth of 
average weight, cambric, fine muslin, and, for very fine 
material, nainsook of good quality. Of all these, 
bleached muslin is the least expensive and will wear 
well, but it is harder to work upon, coarser in texture, 
and less pleasing to wear. English long cloth of 
medium cost, or a good grade of cambric, make the 
most satisfactory garments. Batiste and nainsook are 
too sheer to wear well and are often too sheer to look 
well. 

If nainsook is purchased, get that made from sea- 
island cotton, if possible, as this is stronger and will 
wear longer. The makes of cotton cloth vary in dif- 
ferent sections of the country, and each person should 
learn to know those in her own town or city. I have 
found the Imperial and Princess makes of English long 



22 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

cloth to be perfectly satisfactory for fine use; the 
Glasgow has given good satisfaction for common wear; 
the Berkeley cambric has worn very well, and the 
Imperial sea-island nainsook has been unusually good. 
Do not buy a cheap nainsook or long cloth, for it will 
be so much money thrown away. Instead, get the 
best grade of muslin you can afford. For long cloth 
to wear at all well, you must pay at least fifteen to 
seventeen cents per yard and for the nainsook not less 
than twenty-five cents. 

Study your muslin until you can recognize a good, 
soft grade. When it is at all stiff, rub between your 
fingers and see if it is full of starch; if it is, the starch 
will fall out. This grade of muslin you should avoid, 
for there is no body to it. 

Percale and domestic ginghams will prove very 
satisfactory for everyday wash dresses. The percale 
is really a firm, bleached muslin with a pattern stamped 
upon it. This cloth comes from thirty-two to thirty- 
six inches wide, costs from twelve and one half to 
fifteen cents per yard and, because of its width, cuts to 
good advantage. The price is higher than calico, but 
the firmer weave and greater width make it less expen- 
sive for many purposes. Avoid the dark blue, the so- 
called indigo, with the white spots, if you wish good 
wearing material. The white spots or stripes are made, 
usually, by first dyeing the cloth blue and then bleach- 
ing the design. By this method the strength of the 
cloth is eaten up by the bleaching process. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 23 

Gingham is a material with the pattern woven into 
the cloth. The domestic grades, those made in the 
United States, come in widths varying from twenty- 
seven to thirty-two inches. The grade that corre- 
sponds to percale in price is usually twenty-seven inches 
wide. All ginghams will cut to better advantage if 
the material is shrunk before making into garments. 
Wash in clear, warm water and dry. 

Colored wash goods should be tested for fast 
colors before buying. Take a sample home, wash 
with soap and warm water, and hang in the sun to 
dry. 

Wool. Wool comes from the sheep. When the 
fleece is removed by a skillful person, it holds together 
and looks like the skin of an animal. It is sent to the 
factory thus and there sorted into the different grades 
of wool. The best grade of wool comes from the 
shoulders and sides of the sheep. The natural wool 
contains a greasy matter which helps to preserve it. 
This is washed out after the fleece is sorted. After 
this thorough washing, the wool is made into woolens 
and worsteds. 

Woolens are made usually from short staple wool, 
and the fibers are frequently crossed and mixed. The 
worsteds are made from the long staple wool, and the 
fibers usually lie parallel. The worsteds are dressier 
fabrics, and the patterns seem clearly woven with 
threads easily seen; serge is an example of this style. 
Woolens have threads less easily distinguished, and the 



24 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

result is softer and more indistinct; flannel, tweed, and 
eiderdown are woolens. 

The simplest test for wool is that of burning. The 
odor of the animal fiber is like that of hair, and the fibers 
burn much more slowly than do the cotton ones. 
More ash is always formed from the wool than from the 
cotton. 

Woolen material is used for baby's underwear and 
where much warmth is desired. It is expensive and 
must remain so, because of the cost of raising the sheep. 

A little of the best quality of wool is raised in the 
United States, but the greater part of it has to be im- 
ported. Of this Australia sends us the larger portion. 

Linen. Linen is made from the fibers of the flax 
plant. It has been used for thousands of years, and 
nothing has yet been found that will give the same 
satisfaction for use where high luster and good wearing 
qualities are desired. 

Linen is used largely for table linen, handkerchiefs, 
dress material, and toweling. It absorbs moisture more 
readily and keeps white under constant washing more 
easily than cotton, hence should be used for hand and 
dish towels. In the rich damask weaves used in table 
linen, its high luster makes it not only very beautiful, 
but also causes it to shed the soil much more readily. 
Its tendency to wrinkle makes it rather unsatisfactory 
for common dresses, but it remains popular because 
of its coolness and its fine wearing qualities. 

Linen is always expensive and must remain so, be- 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 25 

cause of the cost of raising it and preparing it for weav- 
ing. A small amount of flax is raised in the United 
States, but the greater part of it comes from abroad. 

Mercerized cotton is often mixed with the linen, and 
the result is sold for pure linen. Experts in linen tell 
me that the adulteration is so skillfully done that the 
ordinary person cannot detect it. We must depend 
very largely upon the honesty of our dealers; however, 
a few tests may be used with fair success: 

Linen threads break unevenly with a pointed end. 

Rub a linen fabric between your fingers, and the 
surface will feel much smoother than a cotton surface. 

Linen fibers lie parallel when untwisted; cotton 
show many directions. 

Burn linen threads, and they remain compact and 
even; cotton will spread apart. 

Linen washed, dried, immersed in concentrated sul- 
phuric acid for two minutes, then washed again and 
dried between filter paper, will remain practically the 
same. Cotton will be dissolved. 

Butcher's linen is a very coarse, heavy weave used 
for aprons and dress skirts. Linen cambric is much 
used for handkerchiefs. Damask is used for fine 
towels, tablecloths, and napkins. 



PART II 
OUTLINE OP WORK 

FOURTH GRADE 

Needle Case 

Materials. German canvas six inches square; 
D. M. C. embroidery cotton No. 3 and No. 5 in color ; 
crewel needle No. 3; white daisy cloth; Clark's 
crochet cotton in white or a harmonious color. 

Directions. Blanket stitch around the edge of the 
canvas with the No. 3 D. M. C. embroidery cotton. 
Inside the blanket stitch place a row of uneven basting 
stitches; inside this a row of even basting stitches; 
inside these stitches run a row of running stitches. 
Cut the daisy cloth one fourth of an inch smaller than 
the canvas ; blanket stitch around the edge of this with 
the white crochet cotton. Place on the inner side of 
the canvas and tie securely through the center with 
the D. M. C. 

Cross-stitch may be used for decoration in place of 
the basting and running. 

27 



28 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Sewing Bag 

Materials. Unbleached muslin twenty inches by 
eight inches ; Coats's crochet cotton (color dark red) ; 
No. 7 and No. 4 needle ; No. 60 white thread. 

Directions. Fold one half a hem on long sides of 
cloth and baste near edge with uneven basting, using 
the crochet cotton: keep the half -inch part of the 
stitch next to you; turn the goods and baste on the 
other side, keeping the half-inch stitch next to you 
and taking up the eighth of an inch space directly 
above the eighth of an inch stitch. Fold a two-inch 
hem at each end of the cloth ; baste in the same manner 
as before ; half an inch above crease the cloth carefully 
and baste again as before. Bring the sides evenly 
together. Baste with white thread, then overcast 
with the red cotton. When the seam is finished, re- 
verse and overcast in the other direction, thus giving 
a double overcasting stitch. Run two tapes or a 
twisted cord, made from the crochet cotton, through 
the casing of the hem ; let each cord be eighteen inches 
to twenty inches in length. 

Cord made from the Cotton. Take four times 
as much cotton as the final length of the cord will 
require; double and twist firmly together; bring the 
ends together again and, holding them in one hand, let 
them twist firmly together; tie. Run into the bag with 
a bodkin or tape needle so called. Two girls can do 
this together very easily. 





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4/'^ 






A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 29 

Pinwheel 

Materials. Cardboard; cretonne or brown linen; 
colored crochet cotton; No. 7 sewing needle; No. 60 
or 70 white thread. 

Directions. Cut two circles pf cardboard each two 
and a half inches in diameter. Cut two circles of the 
cloth each half an inch larger than the cardboard. 
Using the white thread and the sewing needle, gather 
the cloth one fourth of an inch from the edge; place 
each piece of cardboard upon each piece of cloth and 
draw the thread up as firmly as possible; with long 
stitches from side to side fasten the cloth firmly in 
place. Place the two pieces together, raw edges inside, 
and sew with top-sewing stitches all around the edge. 
If desired, the edge may be finished with double over- 
casting as in the sewing bag. Baby ribbon may be 
added as a further decoration. 

Doll's Comfortable 

Materials. Two pieces of fine cheesecloth eight 
inches by ten inches; one piece of sheet wadding nine 
by seven; white or colored crochet cotton; white 
thread No. 60 or 70; sewing needle No. 7; crewel 
needle No. 5; white darning cotton or Germantown. 

Directions. Arrange half the wadding (which will 
easily split) upon each piece of the cheesecloth, leaving 
the edge of the cloth even upon each side. Baste in 
position, using the uneven basting stitch. Turn the 



30 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

cheesecloth over to the edge of the wadding and baste 
down; place the two raw edges (that is, the sides having 
raw edges) together evenly, the cotton inside, and pin 
in place; baste close to the edge with even basting 
stitches. Thread the crewel needle with the crochet 
cotton and blanket stitch around the entire edge, as in 
the needle case. One inch from the side and one and 
one half inches from the end place the needle through the 
comfortable, taking up an eighth of an inch stitch; 
cut off the thread, leaving the ends about one and one 
half inches long; tie once. Fold darning cotton or 
Germantown four times; cut into inch lengths; place 
one length (fourfold) across the knot of the crochet 
cotton; which then tie securely with a double knot; 
trim off the ends evenly, leaving them about three 
eighths of an inch long. Repeat every one and a half 
inches. There should be four of these tackings, as 
they are called, in a row and five rows. 



FIFTH GRADE 
Doll's Sunbonnet 

Materials. Gingham. Size twelve inches wide by 
seven inches long; white thread No. 70; No. 8 needle; 
twenty inches white tape, fourth of an inch wide. 

Directions. Fold the goods lengthwise, edges to- 
gether; from the folded edges measure across three and 

12 inches 



3|inches 



-** 

o 
:r 



3 
o 

ft 






3| inches 



Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares cut out and One 
Side Overcast. 

one half inches; cut out a three and one half inch 
square; overcast the cut edges; turn an eighth of an 
inch seam and top sew these two edges together on each 

31 



32 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

side. Turn a fourth-inch hem around the entire bon- 
net; hem fine; place two small plaits at the neck line 
in the back and fasten with a tiny bow of baby ribbon 
or of white tape. Sew strings made of the tape about 
one inch back from the front and one inch up from the 
bottom. 

If a prettier bonnet is desired, sew a piece of narrow, 
fine lace which has beading, along the front edge of the 
bonnet and run baby ribbon through this. Then make 
the strings and the bow of the same ribbon. A bonnet 
large enough to fit the home doll may be made if 
desired. 

Laundry Bag 

Materials. Gingham, chambray, or lawn, the 
width of the material, if twenty-seven inches, or cut 
to that width, and twenty-seven inches long; one 
embroidery hoop, seven or eight inches in diameter; 
one yard of ribbon one inch wide to match the material; 
one skein D. M. C. No. 3; No. 70 thread; No. 8 
needle. 

Directions. Cut the goods to a thread; baste a 
three-quarter-inch hem at each end and hem. Find 
the middle of one of the selvage sides; bring the bottom 
of the hem to this point and baste the edges together 
(seam on the wrong side). Bring the bottom of the 
other hem to this middle point and baste the other 
edges together. (This allows the hems to remain out 
so that the hoop may be run through.) 

Baste the other side in the same way. Stitch by hand. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 33 

Turn bag on right side and press out the corners. Find 
the place where the hoop is joined together: notch on 
both sides of this place; place the hoop in hot water, 
and it will come apart; then run the hoop through 
the hems and tie it together again with a thread or 
string. Make a bow at each end of the ribbon. Sew 
these two bows at the ends of the bag; arrange the 
gathers evenly and sew a tassel to each corner of the 
bag. 

To make the Tassels. Cut the skein of D. M. C; 
remove two long threads; cut the remainder into 
fourths; fold the fourths evenly; thread one long 
strand into a crewel needle and tie the middle of one 
folded fourth with it: fold again evenly; bring the 
needle up from below through the knot and put back 
close to where it came out, leaving a loop half an inch 
long. Bring the needle out three eighths of an inch 
from the loop and wind the thread firmly around all 
the threads six times; slip the needle under and up 
through the middle of the tassel and draw firmly; cut. 

Holder 

Materials. Gingham or calico seven inches square. 
Two squares. No. 8 needle. No. 70 white thread, 
piece of narrow tape six inches long; white darning 
cotton. 

Directions. Ask the children to bring some old, 
soft cloth from home and use this for filling. Take 
three thicknesses, if thin, and cut to a six-inch square. 



34 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Place half on each square of the gingham or calico and 
baste the edges down to the filling, turning the opposite 
sides first. 

In one corner place the tape and baste to position. 

Place the two pieces of gingham or calico together ; 
baste firmly in place. 

Top sew fine, hemming down the corner where the 
tape comes. 

Find the center and tie the darning cotton, using 
four strands. Repeat halfway between the center and 
each corner. 

Doily 

Materials. Natural colored linen six inches square; 
Coats's crochet cotton in a soft brown shade; No. 5 
crewel needle. 

Directions. With a pencil mark a circle on the linen 
three and a half inches in diameter; one eighth of an 
inch inside mark a second circle lightly in pencil. 
Outline the two circles in running stitch. Scallop stitch 
over these with the brown cotton, being careful that the 
needle goes in and comes out exactly on the line. 
Fringe to this scalloped edge and trim the fringe to one 
inch. 

Pincushion Top 

Materials. Scrim eight inches by six and one 
half; crochet cotton or D. M. C. No. 8; colors, pale 
blue and yellow; crewel needles No. 5; sewing needles 

No. 8. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 35 

Directions. Turn a half-inch hem on all four sides 
of the scrim. (Be sure to turn the opposite sides first.) 
Baste with even basting stitches. On the right side 
outline stitch the hem, being careful to keep on the edge 
of the hem. Find the middle of the scrim, and mark 
with a pencil. Measure out, making a rectangle half 
an inch wide by one inch long, the longer side of the 
rectangle parallel with the longer side of the scrim. 
Half an inch out from the edge of the shorter side of the 
rectangle bring the crewel needle threaded with the 
cotton up from the wrong side, pass over one thread 
and take a half-inch stitch on the wrong side of the 
scrim, bring the needle through the scrim and take an 
inch stitch on the right side, pass the needle under 
half an inch on the wrong side, and bring again to the 
right; pass over one thread and go back in the same 
manner. Continue in this way until the rectangle is 
covered with these long threads. Threading the 
needle with the other color of embroidery or crochet 
cotton, bring it up at right angles with the long threads 
and half an inch from the edge of them and take one 
tiny stitch ; pass over half an inch on the wrong side, 
bring the needle through to the right, and weave in and 
out, over and under the long threads; then pass the 
needle into the scrim, bring it out on the wrong side, 
take a half-inch stitch, pass over two threads, and go 
back in the same manner; continue until the entire 
space has been woven over. Be careful in weaving 
the second time to pass over the threads that you passed 



36 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

under the first time. Fasten with two small stitches 
on the wrong side. Over the tiny stitches that you 
made half an inch beyond the weaving, make three 
rows of outline stitch, using the two colors of em- 
broidery cotton. 

Make a cushion to fit this cover, or bring a cushion 
from home and make the cover to fit it. 



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Stocking Darning 

Bring stockings from home. Place a darning-ball or 
a piece of firm cardboard under the hole to be darned. 
Match the darning cotton to the color of the stocking. 

If the stocking is fine, use 
one strand of the cotton; if 
coarse, use two strands. On 
a line with the center of the 
hole, and half an inch from 
its edge, place the needle in 
the cloth and run with very 
fine stitches to the edge of 
the hole. Pass the needle 
across the hole, under the raw 
edge on the opposite side, and 
make one fourth of an inch of fine running stitches. 
Start back close to this row and repeat the same 
thing, being careful that you pass over the raw edge 
that you passed under before. Continue until half the 
hole is covered and then run the fine stitches one 
fourth of an inch beyond into the stocking. This 



Stocking Darning. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 37 



makes the darn firmer and, less likely to pull out. Do 
the other half in the same manner. When the warp 
threads are all in, begin in the middle with the woof 
threads. Use fine running stitches to the edge of the 
hole as before. Then weave under and over as in the 
cushion-top, keeping the stitches near enough to make 
a firm, close weave. Fasten as with the warp threads 
by running into the stocking one fourth of an inch. 

Directions for Drafting 

Use firm brown paper if possible; if nothing else is 
available, buy some from the grocer. 

Begin in the upper, right-hand corner. 

Down means toward the bottom of the paper. 

Out means toward the left-hand side of the paper. 

Up means from the bottom toward the top of the paper. 

Make all measurements very carefully. 

Yardsticks will be of great assistance if they can be 
obtained. Be very careful when making the free- 
hand curves. 

Sewing Apron 

Draft. Measure down on straight edge of paper 17 
inches and mark 1 at top and 2 at bottom. 
Down from 1 measure 1 inch and mark ... 3 



Out 



6 
3 
5 
8 
11 



inches " 


a 


a a 


tt 


a a 


tt 


a a 


tt 


a tt 


tt 



4 
5 
6 

7 
8 



38 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Connect 4 and 8 with a straight line. 
Down from 4 on line 4-8 measure 8| inches and mark 9 
Up from 8 on line 4-8 " 6 " " " 10 

Connect 5 and 1, 6 and 1, 7 and 1, 8 and 1, 10 and 
1, by straight lines. Connect 3 and 4 by a down curve. 




e 7 6 5 

Draft of Sewing Apron. 



xp on line 6-1 \ inch and mark . 


. 11 


" " " 7-1 2| inches " " . 


. 12 


a (( a o_i r t( a a 


. 13 



" " " 10-1 linch "•'".. 14 

Draw a curved line from 9 through 14, 13, 12, 11, to 5. 

Cut on the curved line 3-4, then down through 4, 9, 14, 

13, 12, 11, 5 to 2. 

If a larger apron is desired, make the following 

changes when drafting the pattern. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 39 

Lengthen the line 1-2 4 inches and mark ... A 
« « 4 _ 84 i « « « . . . B 

Connect A and B with a straight line. 
Lengthen lines 1-5, 1-6, and 1-7 to the line A-B. 
Mark these lines 5a, 6a, and 7a. 

Measure up from 5a \ inch and mark ... C 
" " 6a li inches " " . . . D 

u u 7a4 | u u cc E 

** *< <* o r>3^ ^f ttf a T^ 

Draw a downward curve from 10 through F, E, D, C, 
to A. 

When drafting for a stout girl, measure out five 
inches instead of six at the top of the draft and carry 
the line 1-2 down one inch lower, as shown in the dotted 
lines in the illustration. Cut on the dotted lines. 

To Cut the Apron. Fold the goods lengthwise, 
making the fold just wide enough to fit the widest part 
of the pattern. Be sure that the warp threads are 
perfectly straight. Pin the pattern with the straight 
edge exactly on the fold and the top to the edge of 
the goods. Pin firmly along the edges. Cut exactly 
to the pattern. Leave the fold uncut. Remove the 
pattern, open the cloth, and the apron is ready to 
be made. 

Materials. Three fourths of a yard of lawn, 
dimity, or batiste. One and three fourths or two yards 
of narrow lace. (The imitation Armenian is the most 
satisfactory.) One skein of embroidery cotton, 



40 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

O. N. T. or D. M. C, No. 25, one strand. Number 70 
white thread. Sewing needles, about Nos. 5 and 8. 

Directions. Turn a very narrow hem, three six- 
teenths of an inch, all around the apron. Baste with 
even basting stitches. With the embroidery cotton, 
featherstitch over this hem. (Be sure that this feather- 
stitching is very fine, for it must take the place of the 
usual hemming.) Top sew the lace around the finished 
edge, holding the lace next to you and taking very fine, 
close stitches. Cut a piece of cloth lengthwise, making 
it two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist 
measure taken loosely. Find the middle of the apron 
at the top and mark with a pin; find the middle of the 
band; pin the middle of the apron to the middle of the 
band, keeping the band on the right side of the apron. 
Baste with even basting stitches. Stitch. Turn the 
band over, crease a fourth of an inch fold on the edge, 
and baste this down firmly on the wrong side just over 
the stitching, and hem. Top sew the edges that 
extend beyond the apron. A button and buttonhole 
may be used to finish it, if the pupils are able to make 
them well. 



SIXTH GRADE 

Book Marker 

Materials. Linen-colored chambray or gingham; 
red or brown ribbon; brown twist, red D. M. C. em- 
broidery or red tambo cotton; No. 7 needle; No. 5 
crewel needle; linen-colored thread. 

Directions. Cut linen about three inches by six 
inches. Fold in one eighth of an inch on all sides. 
Fold the edges together lengthwise and baste with 
even basting stitches. Top sew fine, using linen- 
colored thread. One inch from the top cut a button- 
hole across the marker, in the center, three fourths of an 
inch long. Make a buttonhole, following the directions 
given, using either the twist or the cotton. Half an 
inch below cut another buttonhole parallel, and work 
as before. One inch from the bottom cut another but- 
tonhole and work in the same way. Half an inch above, 
cut and make one more. Through these buttonholes 
run twelve inches of half-inch ribbon the same color 
that the buttonholes are worked in. 

41 



42 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Cooking Apron. Medium Size 

Draft. Find waist measure and skirt length. 
Mark upper, right-hand corner of paper .... 1 
Out from 1 measure one third of waist measure and 

mark 2 

Down from 1 measure 2 inches and mark ... 3 
Connect 2 and 3 with a down curved line. 





Cooking Apron. 



Down from 3 measure skirt length and mark 
Out " 4 " 14 inches " " 
" on line 4-5 measure 4 inches " 
" from 6 measure 3 inches and mark . . 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 43 



Out from 8 measure 3 inches and mark .... 9 

Connect 2 and 5 by a straight line. 

Up from 5 on line 2-5 measure 4 inches and mark 10 

Find one third of line 2-5, and add 5 inches to this 
length. Measure down this length from 2 on 
line 2-5 and mark 11 

Connect 1 and 7 by a straight line. Do the same 
with 1 and 8, 1 and 9, 1 and 5, 1 and 10. 

Up from 7 on line 1-7 measure \ inch and mark 12 
" " 8 " " 1-8 " 2 inches " " 

tt a q tt a -j _q a o3 a a ft 

a a pr a a "IK << A3 < ( te " 

(( tc -j r\ a a i_|a a c\ a t( a 

Draw a free-hand curve from 11 through 16, 15, 
14, 13, 12, to 6. 



13 
14 
15 
16 



Draft for the Bib. Mark upper, right-hand 
corner 1 



Down from 1 measure 21| inches and mark . . . 
Out " 1 " 9 " ".".'.. 

a a r> a q a t( a 

Up from 2 on line 1-2 measure 3 inches and mark 



a 


a a 


a 


a f 


6 


a 


a a 


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9 


a 


tt a 


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' 12 


a 


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ft f 


' 14 


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a 


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3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 



44 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 



Up from 2 on line 8-9 measure 20 inches and mark 13 
Out from 2 measure 4| inches and mark ... 14 

15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 

Draw a curving line from 28 through 26, 24, 22, 

21, 19, to 8. 
Draw a second curving line from 28 through 27, 

25, 23, 20, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14. Cut on the line 

2-14, and then on the curving lines, 8-28, 

14-28. 
If a longer bib is needed, lengthen at the bottom 
from one to two inches. 

Directions for Cutting the Aprons. Use per- 
cale that is thirty-six inches wide and has a small 
figure on a white ground. (The directions show you 
how to cut two aprons at the same time.) Fold the 



5 


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6 


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7 


7 


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8 


8 


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9 


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11 


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13 


a 


7 


1 


(C 


4 1 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 45 

material lengthwise. Measure off sufficient for the 
bibs. Fold the remainder crosswise (retaining the 
lengthwise fold). Cut four pieces for the two bands, 
two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist 
measure taken loosely, lengthwise of the cloth along the 
selvage edge. Pin the apron pattern upon the folded 
goods, straight edge upon fold of goods. Cut upon the 
curving portion as in the sewing apron. Pin the pattern 
for the bib on the remaining portion, straight edge on 
fold and cut. It will take two yards of this wide ma- 
terial to make the small apron. If a pupil is larger, two 
and three fourths yards will be required. 

Directions for Making the Apron. Bind the 
apron with bias binding, or finish with a fancy tape. 
Place one band as in the sewing apron, but place the 
other on the wrong side in a similar manner; baste 
with even basting and stitch. The top of this will 
be open and unfinished. Find the middle of the 
band on the right side; pin the middle of the bib 
at the bottom to the middle of the band, right sides 
together; baste together and stitch. Turn in the 
remaining raw edges one fourth of an inch, baste to- 
gether and stitch. Finish the band with a button and 
buttonhole or with loops and buttons. Fasten the 
bib in the same way. If a buttonhole is desired, 
strengthen the end of the bib with an extra thickness 
of cloth carried back one and a half inches from the 
end. See that the threads of the cloth match in 
doing this, 



46 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Cross-stitch Bag 

Materials. Gingham, linen, pongee, scrim, or 
crepe; one third yard for lining, one fourth yard for 
top; D. M. C. No. 5, or D. M. C. six strand, No. 25; 



7%h 



20 in 



Cross Stitch Jbesign 



7%h 



Win 



Z 3 4?n 



Outside 

20 in. 





tin. 




'"""«»--"•-""» 


***£_!:-'--■■•-'-»- ~ %i/'n 








5%'m. 


fyinfiem 


3k 


\ 
| 











jQning 

Diagram of Cross-stitch Bag. 



three skeins of harmonizing color; crewel needles No. 4 
or No. 5; No. 8 needle; No. 70 thread. 

Directions. If the bag is to be made of plain ging- 
ham and the design is to be worked on gingham having 
an eighth-inch check, measure and cut a piece twenty 
inches crosswise of the plain gingham and seven and one 





* * * 



1 f* 



Uftl 

.9.0. 








"... 




A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 47 

half inches on the selvage. Make the checked gingham 
the width the design requires and twenty inches long. 
Baste the checked gingham upon the plain at such a 
distance from top as to have the pattern come about 
two inches from lower edges. Work out a design pre- 
viously made in the drawing department. Cut the 
lining exactly the same width and length as the outside; 
from the remainder cut a piece three inches long by 
five and a half inches wide; turn in the edges a fourth 
of an inch ; place this evenly on one side of the lining 
and fasten with firm couching stitches, using the D. 
M. C; use three strands to couch over. For position 
see diagram given. 

Divide this piece into two pockets with the couching. 
Join the lining and the outside with the machine 
stitching, raw edges together, first the top and then 
the sides. Cut from tag board or cardboard two circles 
three and a half inches in diameter. (If cardboard is 
used, four thicknesses will be required.) Cover each 
piece of cardboard with the cloth, cutting the covering 
one inch larger than the board. Place these circular 
pieces together, raw edges inside, and baste. Gather 
the bottom of the bag and top sew on to the circular 
pieces on the inside of the bag. Make a half-inch 
casing one inch from the top of the bag by running two 
rows of fine combination stitch half an inch apart. 
Make two cords from the D. M. C. and run them into 
the casing. If D. M. C. No. 25 is used, take three 
strands for cross-stitching, and six strands for cord. 



48 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Work Apron 

Materials. Chambray, gingham, or dark calico. 
Bias binding No. 4 or No. 5 A simple Butterick or 
Ladies Home Journal pattern having no sleeves, a 
round neck, and shoulder and under-arm seams only. 

Directions. Select the pattern and then buy the 
amount of goods required. Cut by pattern, allowing 
a two-inch seam. Make a French seam at all seams. 
Finish neck and armhole with the bias binding or facing. 
Make a one-inch hem up the back and a two-inch hem 
at the bottom. If a more decorative apron is desired, 
a simple embroidery stitch may be used on the hems. 
Seed stitch, outline stitch, or chain stitch would be 
satisfactory. If the top is thus finished, let the hem be 
done by hand. 

A still daintier apron may be made from white dimity 
or a fine, delicate gingham or batiste. 

Princess Slip 

Materials. Ladies Home Journal pattern No. 
8091 or any style that is simple and unfitted. Long 
cloth of good grade, from two and one half yards to 
three yards, according to the size of the girl. White 
thread No. 70 and No. 90. Needles No. 8 and No. 9. 
White D. M. C. or O. N. T. No. 25. Narrow lace edge 
at neck and sleeves, either hand or machine made. 
For flounce one and one third times the width of skirt, 
— long cloth or embroidery. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 49 

Directions. Cut according to pattern. Finish 
with French seams. Turn an eighth-inch hem at neck; 
one-inch hems at back. Set in sleeve with French 
seam, and finish with an eighth-inch hem. Divide 
the flounce into fourths; use a separate thread to gather 
each fourth and knot the thread at both ends. (Use 
the coarser thread.) Place one row of gathers an 
eighth of an inch from the edge of the goods, the second 
row an eighth of an inch below the first. Be careful 
that the second row of stitches is exactly under the first. 
Draw each fourth up as close as possible and pull the 
gathers gently until they are even and smooth. 

For directions for placket, see under " Skirt.'' Carry 
the placket nine inches below the normal waist line. 

Divide the slip in fourths at the bottom. Bring the 
edge of the flounce to the edge of the slip wrong sides 
together. Pin at the divisions in fourths. Arrange 
the gathers evenly and baste to slip with even basting 
between the rows of gathers. Stitch. Place the lower 
edge of the bias fold exactly over the lower row of 
gathering; baste with even basting; baste the upper 
side of bias fold down. Stitch both sides close to the 
edge. 

The edge of the flounce, if made of the goods, may 
be just a plain hem with a narrow lace trimming, or it 
may be finished with a simple decorative stitch such 
as feather, chain, or seed stitch. Let the same stitch 
be used at neck and sleeves. Finish the back with 
buttons and buttonholes. 



50 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 



One-piece Dress 

Materials. Gingham or percale; preferably ging- 
ham, because it is softer to work upon. Choose a very 
simple pattern from a Butterick fashion book and give 
individuality by the style of trimming. Provide 
thread, needles, pins, buttons, as for the princess slip. 
Use colored O. N. T. or D. M. C. No. 5 or the six strand 
No. 25 to harmonize with the material. 

Directions. Cut according to directions on pattern. 
Finish with French seams. If sleeves are set in, bind 
with bias folds. Try on before sewing in sleeves or 
turning hem. If made up without shrinking, allow 
one to two inches for shrinking. Finish with buttons 

and buttonholes like the 
princess slip. If a round 
neck is desired, face on right 
side with a narrow fold of the 
goods and finish with some 
simple embroidery stitch. 




Dusting Cap 

Draft for Cap. Draw 
a rectangle eight inches by 
thirteen inches. Mark the 
corners in order 1, 2, 3, 4. 
Divide the long sides into 
halves. Mark the point between 1 and 2, 5 and the 
one between 3 and 4, 6. 



Draft for Cap. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 51 



Draw a line diagonally from corner 4 to point 5. 
From 4 on this line 4-5 measure three inches and 
mark 7. 





hem 




Straight piece 

Dusting Cap. 

Draw a curved line from corner 1 to point 6, passing 
through the diagonal 4-5 at 7. 

Starting at 1, cut through the curving line to 7, from 
7 through 6 down to 3, from 3 across to 2, from 2 back 
to 1. Write on the long straight edge the words " Place 
on lengthwise fold." 

Materials for Cap. One piece of gingham or 
crepe fourteen inches long by sixteen inches wide. One 
piece of gingham or crepe twenty inches long by five 
inches wide. White or colored D. M. C. No. 5 or No. 8. 
No. 8 needle, No. 5 crewel needle, No. 70 white thread. 



52 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Directions. Fold the larger piece of gingham so 
that it will be eight inches wide by fourteen inches long. 
Place the long straight edge of the pattern on this fold; 
pin firmly; cut to the pattern around the curving edge. 
Leave the fold uncut. 

Place two rows of gathers along the curving edge and 
down the straight sides. On the lower edge turn a 
half-inch hem and hem fine. On the ends and down 
one long side of the piece that is twenty inches long, 
place a half-inch hem. Featherstitch with the em- 
broidery cotton. Join the crown and this with a French 
seam, being careful that the featherstitching is on the 
outside of the cap and that the gathers are evenly 
distributed. Make an eyelet in the middle of the hem 
at the back of the cap; run the tape in from the seams 
on the sides, sewing it on firmly, and tie it at the eyelet. 



SEVENTH AND EIGHTH GRADES 

In the seventh and eighth grades the pupils may make 
a full set of underwear for themselves and finish with a 
simple wash dress. Every article made should have 
a touch of hand decoration, and each one should be 
a little more difficult than the preceding one. The 
patterns for the dress and for the combination suit may 
be selected according to the prevailing style. The 
skirt may be drafted, and the nightdress decoration 
should be easily worked on the cloth itself. Make a 
plain kimono style. Buy twice the length of cloth, 
measuring from the neck, at the shoulder, to the floor, 
allowing two inches extra for hem and shrinkage. 



53 



SUPPLEMENTARY WORK 
Small Size Skirt for Doll 

Materials. Two pieces of flannel or outing flannel 
nine inches long by seven and one half inches wide. 
White sewing silk, pink or white twist, white thread 
No. 60, No. 8 needle, two pieces of tape six inches long 
by one fourth of an inch wide. 

Directions. Sew the two breadths of flannel to- 
gether with combination stitch, one edge overlapping 
the other by an eighth of an inch. Make seam a little 
less than one fourth of an inch deep. Turn longer 
edge over flat and cross or catch stitch with fine, close 
stitch. 

Cut down the middle of one breadth two and one half 
inches. From the right-hand side of the skirt turn over 
a half-inch hem. From the left-hand side turn over an 
eighth-inch hem. Catch stitch with fine, close stitch. 

At the bottom of this placket fold the half-inch 
hem over flat and catch stitch or place two rows of fine 
stitching across. 

Turn an inch hem at bottom ; baste and catch stitch. 

One fourth of an inch from top, double gather fine, 
each half by itself. Fold band lengthwise and place 

54 







"3 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 55 

center to the center of the skirt at the top. Arrange 
the gathers evenly and baste. Stitch just below gather- 
ing thread. Fold over one fourth of an inch of the 
band, then turn down over the gathers and baste. 
Hem fine. 

Insert the tape one fourth of an inch into the ends of 
the band and hem down on both sides. Finish the 
ends of tape with a fourth-inch hem. 

Around the upper edge of the hem, place a row of 
featherstitching worked in twist. 

Lawn Apron. Doll's Size 

Materials. White lawn or muslin five inches long by 
seven inches wide; white thread No. 70; No. 9 needle. 

Directions. Turn an eighth-inch hem on sides and 
a half-inch hem on bottom of apron; hem. 

Place a row of fine running stitches one eighth inch 
from top of cloth; then one eighth inch below. Mark 
the middle of top with a cross stitch. 

Straighten the gathers carefully by gently pulling 
them while on the needle or by pushing them along the 
thread and under the thumb and finger. 

Cut a band one and one half inches wide and seven 
inches long. Fold evenly and pin the middle of the 
band to the middle of the gathers on the right side of the 
apron. 

Carry the gathers to within two inches of the end of 
the band; baste with even basting and stitch on the 
gathers. I 



56 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Fold over and baste down over the stitching, turning 
in the raw edge one fourth inch. Hem across the apron 
and top sew the ends. 

This apron may be trimmed with lace or it may be 
hemstitched, as the pupil may desire. 



Magazine Cover 

Materials. Brown linen, half-inch binding ribbon, 
brown thread, No. 8 needle. 

Directions. Cut the size desired; draw threads 
until even. Miter the corners; making the hem about 
two inches wide. Find the center of the folded sides 
and measure out, on the edge of the hem, one half to one 
inch from this center (according to the thickness of the 

magazine). Cut to 
the center line, leav- 
ing one fourth inch 
from the folded edge 
uncut. Bind with 
the ribbon. 

Decorate with a 
stenciled design or 
with a bit of simple 
Inside of Magazine Cover. embroidery. 




Laundry Bag 

Materials. Fine checked gingham (blue and 
white) thirty inches long and eleven or twelve inches 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 57 

wide. No. 70 white thread. Peri Lusta embroidery 
cotton. Size D. Color, shade 311. 

Directions. Overcast long sides. Fold the ends 
over two and three fourths inches. Stitch these over- 
cast edges together to within three fourths inch of 
bottom of folded end; turn this seam under and finish 
with a tt o and one half inch hem. One half inch above 
edge of hem place a row of fine running stitches. 




Laundry Bag. 

About six inches down from the hem work a cross- 
stitch design, using the Peri Lusta cotton. (Allow 
each child to work from her own original design, placing 
this design on one or both sides of the bag.) 

Bring the sides together and baste from hem to fold 
of cloth: stitch, making a fourth inch seam. 



58 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Run double cords or ribbons through the half-inch 
openings in the hem. 

Rubber Bag 

Materials. Half a yard of chambray, gingham, or 
linen. 

Directions. Cut a strip of cloth fifteen inches by 
twelve and one half inches, also cut from the same 
material two circles, each having a diameter of four 
inches. 

Upon the two twelve and one half inch ends of the 
strip make a fourth-inch fold, both folds turning upon 



Rubber Bag showing Featherstitching with Needle 

in POSITION. 

the wrong side of the cloth. Turn again, forming an 
inch hem. Baste. Hem one of the sides thus folded. 
Featherstitch the other upon the right side of the 
material. Fold the featherstitched side of the hem 
over the other and pin in place at both ends, making an 
inch lap. Take one of the circles and arrange at one 
end of bag in such a way that the seam will come inside 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 59 

the bag. Pin carefully and baste a fourth-inch seam; 
backstitch seam; trim and overcast. Arrange the 
second circle at the other end of bag, and baste and sew 
in the same way. 

Finish ends of bag by featherstitching the circles on 
the right side a fourth of an inch from circumference. 
If desired, the word " Rubbers " may be stamped and 
outlined upon the upper part of bag. If lettering is 
to be done, it must be stamped before bag is made. 

Fasten bag with three hooks and eyes placed at 
intervals of three inches. The hooks should be placed 
on the under and further edge of featherstitched hem 
and sewed on by means of buttonhole stitches worked 
around the wider base of the hook, then securely 
fastened either at front end of hook, or under the 
" hump," by means of four straight stitches. The 
straight metal eyes may be used and placed at corre- 
sponding intervals on the upper side of under hem. 

For featherstitching, D. M. C. embroidery cotton 
(No. 20) may be used. 

Sewing Case 

Materials. Outing flannel or wool flannel eight 
and one half inches by five and one half inches, blue 
outing flannel or] ribbon five inches by twelve inches, 
two small pieces of flannel two inches by three inches, 
colored crochet cotton or D. M. C, blue and yellow or 
white ; crewel needles; three fourths yard of half-inch 
ribbon. 



60 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Directions. Turn a fourth-inch fold around the 
flannel or white daisy cloth; catch stitch this with the 
crochet cotton. Measure up from one end four inches, 
and run in three squares of darning in contrasting color. 
Fold back two inches at the same end and baste; top 
sew the ends, catch stitch through the center to make 
two small pockets; blanket stitch around three sides 
of the small pieces; arrange them evenly half an inch 
from the other end and blanket stitch them firmly in 
place. If ribbon is used, arrange case evenly on the 
ribbon and pin in position; turn half-inch hems at the 
ends of ribbon and catch stitch; place this on the 
narrow ribbon evenly and catch stitch together. If 
the blue daisy cloth is used, blanket stitch around the 
edge, then fasten to the inner piece and place the whole 
upon the narrow ribbon (which may be blue or white) 
and fasten as in the earlier case. 

Sewing Apron 

Materials. One and one half yards of lawn, dimity, 
or organdie; wash embroidery silk or embroidery cotton 
(D. M. C. No. 20, or Peri Lusta E. fine). No. 70 white 
thread. 

Directions. Cut apron according to pattern given 
in illustration. Cut band two inches wide and two 
inches longer than waist measure. If strings are de- 
sired, cut band width of apron and cut the strings 
twenty-four inches long by three and one half wide. 

Gather a ruffle from middle to ends; place first row 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 61 

one eighth of an inch from top and the second one eighth 
of an inch below. Fit ruffle to bottom of front gore ; 
baste with even basting between the rows of gathers, 
then sew with combination stitch below the basting. 
Place this seam on the right side. Turn top of pocket 
forming an eighth of an inch hem: baste and feather- 
stitch. Turn one eighth on the bottom, baste evenly 
over the top of the ruffle, and featherstitch. Find 
middle of pocket, crease evenly, and featherstitch to 
apron. 




Sewing Apron. 



Baste the side gores to the front, arranging for French 
seams; finish with eighth-inch seams, using the com- 
bination stitch. 

Turn an eighth-inch hem around sides and bottom 



62 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

of apron, baste with even basting; featherstitch. Place 
middle of band to middle of apron on the right side; 
baste to apron, making a fourth-inch seam; stitch. 

Towel 

Materials. Huckaback linen or cotton. D. M. C. 
No. 12-16. 

Directions. Even ends of goods by a thread. 
Prepare a one and one half inch hem and draw four 
threads. 

Hemstitch. 

Two inches above the hem embroider the monogram 
or initials. 

To Embroider the Initials. Select a simple style of 
letter and transfer to the towel by tracing over transfer 
paper. (This method is the simplest and, where only a 
very little is to be done, may be used satisfactorily.) 
Pad the letter by filling the space with rows of running 
stitches done with the four-fold darning cotton. Chain 
stitch may be used, but the result is less even. 

The embroidery stitch used is the simplest form of 
satin stitch. Where the initial runs parallel with the 
threads of the cloth, make over and over stitches close 
together. Let the needle enter the cloth exactly at 
one edge of the pattern and come out exactly at the 
other. You must have a perfectly even edge if the 
result is to be good. As the pattern curves, slant the 
stitches, being careful that the stitches are close together 
so that no padding shows. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 63 

Towel with Swedish Weaving 

Materials. One yard or three fourths of a yard of 
linen toweling, huck preferred. Two or more skeins 
of No. 8, D. M. C. or O. N. T. to correspond in number. 
No. 50 white thread. No. 5 crewel needles and No. 8 
sewing needles. 

Directions. Measure in three and one fourth 
inches at each end and draw threads until you have 
about one inch of space drawn. Turn in one fourth of 
an inch at the edge, bring this to the edge of the drawn 
space, and baste with even basting. Hemstitch, taking 
up about five threads each time. Use the No. 50 
thread for this work. With the embroidery cotton, 
begin and weave in and out through the drawn space, 
taking up the same number of threads that were used 
in hemstitching and passing over the same number. 
The illustration (see Frontispiece) gives one simple 
pattern easily worked out. If desired, one end of the 
towel may be finished with plain hemstitching and the 
other with the weaving. 

Damask Hemming 

Materials. White linen six or six and one half 
inches square. No. 9 needle. No. 70 white thread. 

Directions. Draw threads in the linen, making as 
large a square as possible. On opposite sides turn and 
baste an eighth-inch hem. Holding the wrong side 
toward you, fold and crease the cloth back, so as to 



64 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

make it even with the first fold of the hem. Top sew 
very fine. Turn hems on two remaining sides, baste, 
top sew ends, and then sides as before. Finish with 
lace, — torchon or any variety that is suitable to the 
linen; follow the directions given for sewing on of lace. 

Doily 

Materials. Heavy white linen. No. 7 needle. 
Embroidery cotton No. 25, 6 strand, white. 

Directions. With a spool, mark simple scallops 
around the linen, making it the size desired. Pad 
slightly with long outline stitches, using white darning 
cotton. Blanket stitch over these stitches, but keep 
the stitches close together and the edges perfectly even. 
When finished, trim the cloth to the edge of the em- 
broidery and then buttonhole around the entire edge with 
ordinary cotton thread. This buttonholing will keep 
the linen from fraying and give a smoother edge. 

Corset Cover 

Materials. One yard of cambric, dimity, or long 
cloth. Two and three fourths yards of lace. One and 
three fourths yards of beading. D. M. C. or O. N. T. 
No. 25, single strand, white. No. 70 white thread. 
Nos. 8 and 9 needles. 

Directions. Select a pattern having shoulder and 
under-arm seams. Make flat fell seams. Turn an 
eight-inch hem around the top. Turn one-inch hems 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 65 

down the front. Face armholes with fourth-inch fac- 
ings. Gather the bottom from about two inches in 
front of the under-arm seam to front hem, using two 
rows of gathers, the first one eighth of an inch from the 
bottom, the second one eighth of an inch above the 
first. Finish the bottom with a band three fourths of 
an inch wide when finished. (This band should be torn 
two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist 
measure taken loosely.) Featherstitch the top and the 
front hems with the embroidery cotton. Finish with 
the lace and beading, and run lingerie tape into the 
beading, or crochet a tiny cord and run this through. 

If preferred, seed stitch or outline stitch may be sub- 
stituted for the featherstitching. 

Waist Protector 

Materials. One and one half yards of fine cheese- 
cloth, silkolene, or batiste; wash embroidery silk to 
match material. No. 70 thread. One half yard nar- 
row ribbon to match goods. 

Directions. Even ends by a thread. Fold one 
selvage edge together evenly. Baste; find the middle 
of this seam, measure out from the center along the 
seam one and one half inches. From this point sew to 
edge with the combination stitch, making an eighth- 
inch seam. Bind the open paxt with the ribbon and 
featherstitch along the edge of the ribbon. If wished, 
more ribbon may be used and a rosette or bow placed 
at one side or in the middle. 



66 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Turn a fourth-inch hem down the open side and a 
one-inch hem at the bottom. Baste with even basting 
and featherstitch along the edge of the hem. Use 
either single or double featherstitching. 

Table Cover or Table Runner 

Materials. Linen or gingham. One yard or one 
and one fourth yards. Linen-colored thread. 

Directions. If square cover is desired, use one yard 
of thirty-six inch linen (natural color) or a square of the 
narrower kind. Finish with a two-inch hem, making 
mitered corners. 

Place a stenciled design at the corner inside the hem, 
working out the design as part of the regular art work. 

To make a runner, use one and one fourth yards of 
linen or linen-colored gingham; finish with one and one 
half inch hems on the sides and a three-inch hem at the 
bottom; miter the corners as before. Place stenciled 
design above the three-inch hems. 

If desired, both of these covers may be hemstitched. 

Kimono 

Materials. Japanese crepe or ripplette. Simple, 
narrow lace not over one inch in width. Embroidery 
cotton to harmonize with the materials. A simple 
pattern for a short kimono. White thread No. 70. 
Sewing needles No. 8. Crewel needle No. 6. 

Directions. Buy the pattern first. Buy the 
amount of material required by the pattern, and cut care- 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 67 

fully according to directions. Finish with French seams. 
Turn an eighth-inch hem around the kimono; baste with 
even basting stitches; featherstitch or chain stitch with 
the embroidery cotton. Top sew the lace on, giving 
just a little fullness where needed. Fasten with rosettes 
of the material. Adapt the weight of the lace to the 
material used; a much heavier variety will be needed 
for the crepe than for the ripplette, German Valen- 
ciennes will prove satisfactory for the ripplette, but a 
light-weight Cluny will be better for the heavier crepe. 

Fancy Apron 

Pattern for Apron. Enlarge the one given eight 
times. 

Materials. Use fine lawn or nainsook. One yard 
of material is required. Three and one half yards of 
lace; one and one half yards of insertion; No. 9 needle; 
No. 90 thread. 

Directions. Turn a very narrow hem on the sides 
and bottom of each gore of the apron. Hem fine. 
Put the gores together with the insertion, basting care- 
fully, and then top sewing very fine. Carry the inser- 
tion around the top of the center gore, for this gives the 
bib of the apron. Cut two bands, each eight inches 
long and one and one half inches wide. Cut the strings 
three inches wide and twenty-four inches long. Hem 
the long sides and one end. Gather the other end and 
sew neatly into the ends of the bands. Sew the bands 
on to the side gores in the usual way, top sewing the 



68 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

ends to the insertion and top sewing the portion that 
extends beyond the gores. Top sew the lace around 




Pattern fob Apron, one eighth size. 

the entire apron, following the general directions for 
sewing on lace. Place lace on the ends of the strings 
only. 

Underskirt 

Take the waist and skirt measure of each girl and add 
five inches to the skirt length. 

Pattern of Skirt. Place paper on desk. Make 
measurements out and down from upper corner of paper. 

Directions. 

Front gore. 
Out from corner measure 1-6 of waist measure and 
mark A 



A HANDBOOK OP ELEMENTARY SEWING 69 

Down from corner on outer edge of paper measure 



Down from B, measure skirt length plus 5 inches 

and mark . C 

Out from C, measure 12 inches and mark . . . D 
Connect A and D with a straight line. 



# waist 




Pattern for Front and Side Gore of Skirt. 

Down from A on this straight line measure skirt 
length plus 5 inches and mark ... . . E 

Connect A and B with a free-hand curve. 

Connect C and E with a free-hand curve. 

Cut on curve A and B. Straight line A and E and 
curve E and C. 



70 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Mark straight edge of length of paper with these 

words: "Place on lengthwise fold of cloth." 

Mark " half front gore." 
Side gore. 
Measure out from corner \ waist measure and mark A 
Measure down from corner \ of an inch and mark B 
Measure down from B skirt length plus 5 inches and 

mark C 

Measure out from C 15 inches and mark . . . D 

Connect A and D with a straight line. 

Measure from A down this straight line skirt length 

plus 5 inches and mark E 

Connect C and E with a free-hand curve. 
Connect A and B with a free-hand curve. 
Cut on curves and line A-D. Notch gored side 

twice and mark " side gore." Notch straight 

edge once. 

Back Breadth Draft as you did the side breadth 
but take one third of waist measure at top and eighteen 
inches at the bottom. 

Materials for Skirt. Long cloth, cambric, or 
muslin; three lengths should be sufficient, if you add 
to each the extra five inches. The flounce may be of 
the cloth or of edging. Allow one third more than the 
width of the skirt. No. 70 white thread; No. 8 needles. 

If desired make the skirt of flannel, or flannelette, or 
outing flannel. In this case buy more material, as the 
outing flannel is not so wide. 



A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 71 

Note. If made of flannel, finish the seams with a 
flat fell and simply featherstitch around the edge of the 
hem. Make the placket and also the band of long cloth. 

Directions for Cutting the Underskirt. Fold 
one piece lengthwise. On this fold place the straight 
edge of the front gore. Pin securely in pla&ce and cut, 
leaving the fold untouched. 

On the straight selvage edge, place the straight side 
of the side gore. Pin in place and cut. Turn upside 
down and fit in the other side. Cut. Arrange the back 
breadths in the same way and pin and cut. Lay the 
entire pattern on and try it before cutting any, so as to 
use the cloth to the best advantage. 

Directions for Making. Finish with French 
seams. Make a continuous placket. Finish the top 
with a band one inch wide when made. Place a button 
and buttonhole in the ends. Turn an inch and one 
half hem. For the flounce see directions for princess 
slip. 

To Make the Placket. Leave nine inches at the 
top of the back seam unfinished. Cut a lengthwise 
strip of cloth eighteen inches long by two and one half 
inches wide. Beginning at the top, on the right side, 
place the placket strip against the skirt, edge to edge, 
and baste, one eighth inch from the edge, with even 
basting stitches; when at the bottom of the opening, 
turn and baste up the other side. Stitch just below the 
basting. Turn one fourth inch on the raw edge; 
crease; fold over the first stitching and pin in place. 



72 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 

Baste. Hem down the left-hand side and half an inch 
up the right-hand side. Crease this side firmly. 
Remove the basting. Cut out the under portion to 
within a fourth of an inch of the crease. Turn the 
remaining portion of the cloth to the wrong side, make 
the edge even with the seam, so that none shows on the 
right side, baste and sew like any hem. At the 
bottom of the hem, place two rows of stitching an 
eighth of an inch apart, just the width of the hem. 
This strengthens the placket at the bottom. 

THE END 



C 32 89 i 



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BINDERY INC. |§| 

€| DEC 88 
JjK N. MANCHESTER, 
^ INDIANA 46962 










